Gun Reviews

The second installment of the Yellowstone origin stories has wrapped up its first season with the “1923” limited series. Like its counterpart in “1883,” “1923” featured some really neat firearms, some historically accurate, and some maybe not so much.

For those who might not fully know, “1923” follows the next generation of the Dutton family on the Montana homestead that was featured at the end of “1883.” In this version, we see Jacob Dutton, the brother of James from “1883,” and his wife Cora, along with John and Jack Dutton, the sons of James living through the year in Montana and across Africa.

One of the major arching themes of “1923” as a whole is the struggle between technological advancements and tradition. This can be witnessed in scenes with characters on horseback while period cars rumble by, and in the presence of historical firearms and newer options.

What rifles are seen in the 1923 Yellowstone Origin Story?

Quite a few, actually, ranging from the Winchester 94 to a double-barreled H&H, as well as the Lee Enfield and some World War I rifles. Here’s a look.

Winchester 94

The main rifle used in “1923” is the Winchester 94 carbine. This carbine was invented by John Browning in 1894 and offered an affordable and reliable carbine that was often chambered in the smokeless .30-.30 cartridge during that time period. The lever action rifle was definitely one of the more popular hunting rifles available thanks to the lighter weight and compact profile that was quick to shoot.

Portrayed in “1923,” the Winchester 94 is used readily and accurately in many shooting scenes. The ones shown on screen may be a later model, like the 1940s “flat band” rifle that has a similar butt plate and sights. While seen as old-fashioned even in 1923, it would certainly be right at home with the men on the ranges of Montana.

Additionally, the rifles shown match up with what the “Yellowstone” protagonist, John Dutton III, regularly uses, illustrating how these rifles were often handed down within families with many around still today. As a side note, the rifle that is used on “Yellowstone” is an actual family heirloom of actor Kevin Costner, who stated in different interviews that the Winchester 94 that he uses on-screen was his father’s.

Holland & Holland Double Rifle

The Holland & Holland Double Rifle makes its appearance in “1923” in the Spencer Dutton storyline. In it, he is a World War I vet traveling in Africa working as a hunter of large maneaters, like lions and such. His weapon of choice in the first episode is the Holland & Holland Double Rifle. This rifle was historically chambered in several large calibers like .375 H&H Magnum, .470 Nitro, .500 Nitro, .577 Nitro, and .600 Nitro.

While the rifle he carries in the show doesn’t seem to match up exactly with the rifles at the time, it is most likely aimed at being similar enough to convey the feeling, if that makes sense. Since he was employed by a British company, his Holland & Holland seems like the natural fit. So while the rifle might be a dead-on match, it does help illustrate the large game hunting era of the time in Africa.

Lee-Enfield No. 1 MkIII*

In other scenes from the Spencer Dutton storyline, the character is seen with a Lee-Enfield No. MkIII* rifle. This rifle was essentially a simplified version of the MKIII used by the British Commonwealth during WWI, chambered in .303 British. This bolt action rifle has a 25” barrel length with updated sights, a different cocking piece, and a magazine cutoff. This rifle would continue to see use after WWI and into WWII and beyond.

WWI Rifles

The Spencer Dutton character, as a veteran of World War I, experiences some flashbacks to his time during the war. During these scenes, A few different rifles are shown, including Mauser Gewehr 1898 rifles carried by German soldiers and Springfield M1903 rifles carried by American forces. Both rifles are accurate depictions of what soldiers during WWI would have been using and carrying. The Mauser rifle was traditionally chambered in 7.92x57mm with a 5-round magazine while the Springfield M1903 rifle was a .30-06 rifle with a 5-round column box magazine.

Shotguns In the Series

Staying true to the strong women types that are so popular in the “Yellowstone” series, Cara Dutton is no exception. Like Beth Dutton of “Yellowstone” and Margaret Dutton of “1883”, Cara handles the scatter-shot shotgun with ease and skill.

When she uses a firearm, she usually has a side-by-side hammerless shotgun. The 12-gauge shotgun appears in the opening scenes of the series and looks to be similar to an Ithaca Flues Field Grade shotgun which was manufactured between 1908 and 1926. So, if the shotgun is the Ithaca Flues, it would fit in perfectly with that time frame. The one carried in “1923” appears to have Damascus barrels, that have a twisted steel pattern present as well.

Other shotguns make appearances in “1923” in addition to Cara Dutton’s shotgun, like a Charles Parker 1878 shotgun or a Winchester Model 1897 Trench shotgun. The Charles Parker 1878 lookalike shotgun appears in scenes featuring Hank Plenty Clouds, matching up with the dates of the shotgun production. The walnut stock and length of the barrel also seem to match up with the original.

The other shotgun that shows briefly in the series is the Winchester Mode 1897 Trench shotgun, something that was used during WWI by soldiers. The Spencer Dutton character’s flashbacks to WWI battles show the shotgun in use. The shotgun was the first successful pump-action design from John Browning and was used by US forces in both World Wars with a short barrel. The design of the shotgun could be used by even inexperienced shooters and could have all six rounds fired within two seconds. It was so successful in neutralizing the enemy that the German government filed an official complaint against the American use of the shotgun.

Are there any machine guns in 1923?

Given the timing of “1923” and the proximity to World War I, it’s no surprise when automatic weapons appear on screen in war scenes and Montana-based battle scenes. For the war sequences, the Browning M1917A1 makes its debut for the show, while the Thompson M1921AC machine gun shows up in the hands of ranchers in Montana.

During some of Spencer Dutton’s war flashback scenes, the Browning 1917A1 belt-fed machine guns play center stage. While the battles are not explicitly named in the show, some viewers believe his flashbacks featuring the late-war arrival stem from the battle during the Meuse-Argonne offensive, the final major campaign of WWI, and some of the bloodiest.

On the home front, civilians had access to Thompson machine guns, which was a weapon of war that found a market in the States. Remember, this is prior to the National Firearms Act of 1934 and deep in the realm of the mobsters and prohibition bootleggers. It wasn’t exactly cheap to purchase these weapons, but given the right means, a rancher in Montana could easily have access to them. The Auto-Ordnance company even marketed the weapon to civilians as the ”Thompson Bandit Gun,” so it’s no real stretch for it to arrive on screen.

Handguns of 1923: A Yellowstone Origin Story

The series offers plenty of handgun action. Here’s a look.

Smith & Wesson Military & Police

Jacob Dutton, played by Harrison Ford, has his sidearm of choice in the Smith & Wesson Military & Police model. Originally released in the late 1800s as the Smith & Wesson Model 10, the double-action revolver has been through several iterations since its release. The version seen in the series is a K-frame revolver, mostly likely chambered in .38 Special. This revolver is said to be one of the most popular ever produced, so it fits right in on “1923”.

Colt Single Action Army

Like the revolver covered in the Firearms of “1883” piece, the Colt Single Action Army, or SAA, was a wildly popular revolver from the Old West through early modern times. Known by other names, like the Peacemaker and the Frontiersman, the western revolver is natural. By the time “1923” is set, the revolver was starting to decline in popularity, but with an estimated 300,000+ in circulation, it was proven a reliable and durable weapon. Also, added into the mix is the character who is often seen with it, John Dutton whose father was James Dutton of “1883” and his son Jack. The aspect of a family heirloom is right on par.

Webley & Scott Mk VI

In the opening scenes of “1923,” Cara Dutton is seen holding another rancher at gunpoint with her shotgun. The other rancher, an Irish immigrant, is shown having trouble reloading his Webley Mk IV revolver, more from adrenaline than anything. The Webley & Scott top break revolver was a well-known wheelgun used by many military personnel and civilians throughout the United Kingdom at the time. The revolver making its way to the American West with its Irish owner is spot on.

Colt M1911

The Colt M1911 .45 pistol makes a few appearances in the “1923” series, both in the hands of Spencer Dutton as well as a guard for a mining company. This pistol was a popular choice during the era and was readily available thanks to soldiers keeping theirs after the War and many on the market as military surplus. The pistol was reliable and said to be one of the best self-loading pistols created, with different versions of the pistol being used by military forces throughout the 20th century.

Colt Officer’s Model Match

The Sheriff in “1923” is seen with a Colt Officers Model Match Fifth or Sixth Issue. While the revolver model doesn’t quite match up with what would be available at the time, it probably was meant to show an earlier model, a medium frame double action target revolver from Colt. Regardless, it wasn’t accurate for the time.

Wrapping Up

The showrunners for “1923” did a good job mixing the firearms that would have been used at the time. By mixing the newer technology during the era and the traditional firepower, the theme seemed to be met with subtlety. Between the sweeping vistas of Africa, the mountains of Montana, and the flashbacks to the brutal War, the show matches firepower with tradition.

As a side note, fans of both 1883 and 1923 can rest easy as it was recently announced that both series will receive extra episodes to help round out the stories leading up to the Yellowstone timeline. No word on air dates yet but should be within the next year or so.

I was fortunate to attend a unique event recently, the LMT Owner’s Experience. LMT Defense hosts an event that allows LMT enthusiasts to train like the Defense users that employ their weapon systems. This was a two-day event at the Tier 1 Training group outside of Memphis. This facility has over a 700-acre footprint which translates to many specialized training facilities with some amazing training opportunities. While this isn’t specifically a training event, participants still get to walk away with knowledge from one another and the LMT Defense Staff.

The day started and ended in barracks-style lodging on the facilities campus. Chow was served at 07:00 AM, and we joined current military units training as we all got our first meal in for the day. It was a very cool experience knowing that while we were enjoying this weekend’s getaway of shooting, service members were training for their mission sets on the same ranges we were on. It added a “realness” to some of the drills and training exercises we got to experience.

Day 1

Flat Range

Our first block of shooting was on a series of standard flat-range bays with many steel targets and barriers. Some participants had to zero their weapon systems, so we had free time to warm up and check out one another’s gear. I really enjoyed this portion because you got to be hands-on with many different LMT products and optics that people chose for their setups. Shooting my direct impingement SPECWAR next to a piston SPECWAR was eye-opening in reducing recoil. Although my gun has less felt recoil than many, the piston system reduced it even further.

After racing on plate racks and beating the timer, we moved to more structured drills hosted by Zack Sisco, the International Sales Manager for LMT. We paired off and formed a firing line. We went through some “up-drills” where we started at low or high ready. On Zack’s command, we brought the guns up, found our sights, and broke the shot. We then moved to some reload drills that utilized LMT Ambidxrious bolt release.

Once everyone was warmed up and ready for more dynamic training, LMT added some movement into the mix. We first worked on moving laterally across the range while engaging targets that were called out randomly by one of the instructors. This tests your reflexes and cognitive ability to identify the correct target and then engage promptly.

The flat range block concluded with a partner communication exercise. We were positioned with our partners on a 100-yard bay with barricades scattered every 20-25 yards in two rows. While communicating with your partner, one person would lay down suppressive fire, and the other partner would advance to the next position. This is repeated until you hit the 25-yard mark, and both partners engage the targets simultaneously. There are few places where you get to try this type of training. Everyone was pumped by the end of this block.

MOUT Training

MOUT stands for Modern Operations in Urban Terrain. There was a mock city on the complex where we got to use our personal LMT rifles with chalk rounds and practice clearing buildings individually and as a team. This was some of the most fun because the structures were very complex, with connecting rooms, long hallways, and a control room to operate the lights, sound system, and a series of distractions when moving through the building. This really put the flat range work to the test because by this point, our stress levels were heightened, and we had to identify the threats and the hostages while communicating as a team with people we met the night prior.

Nightvision Flat Range

After some chow, the sun started to set, and we headed back out to the range. It was time to shoot in the dark and utilize night vision. Some people brought their night vision, but a lot of people did not have their own. TNVC & Opscore were sponsors of the event and provided some rental units that participants could borrow for this portion. For some, this was the first time they ever used night vision. I love it when companies provide these types of opportunities for people. Night vision and suppressors go hand in hand; you only realize how well they work once you have them in your hands.

We spent most of the time on a firing line engaging different steel targets. There were a couple of VTAC barriers that we started to utilize mid-way through the night. It was great to get hands-on with a handful of full-power lasers and see how different-size rifles perform under NODs. I have had my own set of NODs for four years, so I was very excited to see how TNVC’s lineup compared. Night vision can be anywhere from three to five thousand for a monocular and seven to sixteen thousand for a set of binos. This means that testing night vision out becomes few and far between. I really appreciated the opportunity to try out the different night vision and also shoot with them!

Day 2

Unknown Distance Range

We kicked off day two at the Unknown Distance Tange at T1G. This range had targets all the way out to 1,000 yards at undisclosed distances. Having an environment that allows you to estimate ranges and then confirm with a rifle was very gratifying. I shot my 12.5″ 5.56 LMT out to 750 yards with accountable hits. Some of the larger caliber LMT MRGG 6.5 Creedmoor easily made 950 and 1,000-yard shots. The guns did most of the work for you!

For fun, I even took out a couple of the pistols I had brought, and I got confirmed hits at 200 yards. The freedom for us to explore on different platforms was a great experience and something you rarely get to do on a 1,000-yard range. This quickly built up our appetite for lunch, so we headed to the chow hall to refuel for the next adventure.

Machine Guns & 40MMs

We returned to the same range with a fresh arsenal. Being that LMT produces machine guns, it was only fitting that we got to shoot some full autos. LMT is also known for manufacturing 40MM grenade launchers. They brought a few cases of chalk rounds for us to launch. This was definitely one of the highlights of the trip. Most people will never have the opportunity to shoot 40MM grenades, let alone go through cases of them with newly made friends. We all tried taking some pop shots with a standalone 40MM launcher at the 200-yard silhouette. When the chalk rounds hit the target or the ground, it explodes with orange Cheeto dust that leaves a lasting mark. And, of course, machine guns are always fun. I will never not shoot a machine gun. LMT had a variety of calibers ranging from 5.56 to 6.5 Creedmoor. Why do you need a 6.5 Creedmoor machine gun? Because this is America, and we can! We enjoyed spending a couple of hours shooting LMT’s ammo and recreating our favorite action movie scenes.

Vehicle Training

The final course of fire for the weekend was vehicle combatants. Tier 1 Group has an entire driving course with rifle-rated berms that allowed us to shoot from a moving vehicle. Again, LMT is bringing the average shooter the opportunities they cannot find commonly at local ranges or training. A small loop was created with a few steel targets and some paper targets we got to shoot at as we drove by. After a few reps of this, we got to experience “ambush” training where we had to shoot our way out of the situation, and it ended with an aggressive J-turn style 180°.

Overview

This two-day event felt like it was a week long, with each day packed to the brim with activities. Thank you to Joe Hajny and the other LMT staff who helped make this happen. If you are an LMT enjoyer, keep an eye out for this event so you can experience similar training and opportunities. The pistol ammunition used for the 200-yard shots was from GunMag Warehouse. Pick some up for yourself! To see some of this event’s videos, stop by my YouTube channel: Hunter Constantine.

VR Practical Shooting, what is it? Well, it’s a work in progress. VR Practical Shooting is a VR game aimed at communities who enjoy USPSA, Steel Challenge, 3-Gun, etc. It aims to provide a fun but also training-based approach to practical shooting. I played it on the Oculus Quest 2, and it’s available on the Oculus Lab, which is a section for games in progress. The Oculus Lab gives you a warning about the Lab games being incomplete, but I still plunked down my $20 and hit the download button. I was pleasantly surprised at less than half a gig download size.

The game fires up, and immediately, I suggest clicking the training button. You need to learn the controls, and they aren’t obvious at first. This is the first game I’ve played that uses one controller but two hands. Do both the basics and competition training to learn how everything works and dive deep into the controls and how the game works. Also, read the FAQ. Once that’s done, then try your hand at the various modes. Speaking of, let’s break those down.

Modes on Modes

We covered the training mode, but the game also has Free Ranges where you can just shoot for fun. The Jank Wick is my favorite, followed by a steel-style range clearly inspired by Hickock45’s home range. This is where you can get familiar with the numerous targets and how they function. There are steel, paper, and versatile targets that move and groove.

It also has competition stages with various classifiers you can shoot and enjoy. They mimic real classifiers and explain each one before you shoot it. It’s interesting, fun, and easy to get into. They have several classifiers for several different shooting sports, so you can learn how they work and rehearse them in VR, at home, basically for free.

The game is clever in how it starts matches. You have to load, make ready, and holster. Then you’ll get already and start signal automatically. Remember to put the safety on if applicable before reholstering.

There is also a custom gun mode that allows you to attach optics, lights, change sights, etc. Different guns have different customization options. For example, the decked-out race guns have a lot more options than the revolver.

Finally, we have a stage-building mode. You can design your own stages with tons of various targets, as well as obstacles and custom cover designs you can implement. You can place them, rotate them, raise and lower them, and so on and so forth. It’s really cool how much work went into this mode. You can save and share your custom stages with friends.

The Controls

The controls are really cool and make the most out of the Oculus controller. For handguns, you use a single controller. Racking the slide and working the safety is done with the flicks of a joystick. Dropping the magazine and releasing the slide are tied to buttons. A grab button allows you to draw the gun, and you can guess what the trigger does.

To reload, you simply make the reloading motion, and your gun picks up on the movement. It’s seamless, mostly, until it occasionally misses your reload. It’s seemingly rare, but it happens. You have to align sights and aim or use a dot, which is my preferred option. This delivers a good deal of satisfaction and realism.

What about long guns? Good question. I’m fairly clueless. I do know that you need to switch to two-controller mode. Other than that, the FAQ and training don’t address it. My short time spent trying to use a shotgun resulted in frustration. I couldn’t figure out how to load, cock, or even how to properly hold and aim the thing. A training mode needs to be implemented for long gun use.

I checked out the Discord for the game, where the developer answers questions. Someone asked how to use long guns, and he referred them to the FAQ, which doesn’t tell you much more than switch to two-handed controls.

The revolver is also tricky to reload. Specifically, how to get ammo into the gun seems odd and doesn’t function well. Maybe a revolver training mode could be added?

Training Value

Admittedly off the bat, a VR game is tough to sell as a training aid. You might ask, what about recoil, malfunctions, muzzle rise, etc.? Well, we do get muzzle rise, and you can learn to track your sights. We don’t get real recoil, obviously. The training value to me comes from shooting and learning the stages, as well as the rules of practical shooting.

You can shoot through all of the common Steel Challenge stages, the USPSA Qualifiers, and more. Here you can learn how the stages work and mentally rehearse them with actual visual feedback. You can learn to lean out from cover and even sprint between obstacles if you have the room to do so, but that can be tricky outside of a warehouse.

There is also something to be said for finding the dot or aligning sights on the fly, and you can do that here. It’s almost like a very intense dry-fire session. There could be some training value in drawing your gun or at least working through the motions. Sadly, the holster placement mechanism is wonky.

You can basically set your holster where you want it inside a bubble that surrounds your body. Every time I put it on my hip in a realistic place, it would float and disorient and basically be between my legs in the game. This makes it very difficult to play the game properly. I had to set the gun about a foot away from my hip and in the bubble to get this stop, so my draw isn’t quite realistic.

Weapons and Gear

You can play with quite a few guns and gadgets. This includes a Glock, a 1911, a CZ Shadow 2, some tricked-out race guns, A S&W 929, a Laugo Alien, a Benelli M2, an MPX, a Dissident Arms Saiga, and many more. The gadgets include red dots, lights, and more. I mostly played with the handguns since I couldn’t get the long guns to work.

Dots include realistic representations of your favorite models. This includes the Aimpoint Acro, the Trijicon RMR, the Trijicon SRO, Shield Sights, and even a Holosun with the Vulcan reticle. You get tons of customization options with varying weapons, so it’s easy to just sit and tinker in the game’s made-up little shed.

The Jank

As an unfinished Oculus Lab game, VR Practical Shooting has some jank. As I mentioned, it’s not intuitive with long guns. The holster zips around after being locked, and sometimes you can’t leave a mode. Something happens where your hand is stuck in ‘gun’ mode even after you’ve holstered. The only way to leave the stage is to menu quit the game and start over. VR Practical Shooting certainly has some bugs, and $20 feels like a lot to ask for an unfinished game. However, it seems like the developer is quite active with fans and buyers on their Discord.

This gives me hope we’ll see more and more updates. I also need to find someone to 3D print one of the gun-shaped controllers for me. That would make this an absolute blast. VR Practical Shooting has some jank, but I really enjoy playing, especially since I can make the excuse that it’s training.                                                                                               

In a recent contribution to The Mag Life, our own Jason Mosher explained the pitfalls of using full metal jacket ammunition for personal protection. Full metal jacket ammunition chiefly consists of a lead core completely enclosed by a copper jacket. These projectiles do not have an exposed front and will not expand. A lack of expansion is perfectly fine for range ammunition, but for self-defense, a good hollow-point projectile is preferred. Jason points out that full metal jacket does have some legitimate uses, such as their use in defeating barriers, but otherwise believes full metal jacket loads over-penetrate the intended target and should not be used.

But when you get away from the usual calibers, particularly as you get lower in velocity, the case can be made for full metal jacket as a defensive load. In calibers from 22 Long Rifle to 380 ACP, hollow-point ammunition often fails to expand—or they overexpand and do not penetrate enough. The answer is to carry a nonexpanding full metal jacket load. The 25 ACP cartridge is just one of several handgun cartridges that fall into this category. Buffalo Bore recently took the nonexpanding 25 ACP load to the extreme with their heavy-for-caliber 60-grain flat nose offering; but the very first 25 ACP load out there is probably the best option—the old-school 50-grain full metal jacket.

25 ACP — Some More Equal than Others

The FN 1905 pistol was the first handgun to chamber the 25 ACP cartridge. The original load was a 50-grain full metal jacket projectile at a velocity of about 750 feet per second. These are sedate ballistics by today’s standards, though more powerful than some of the most popular concealed carry calibers of the time. Still, improving on the power of the 25 ACP has mostly been a fool’s errand and the old-school load gives you the best chance.

Although all 50-grain loads use the same boring projectile, they are not all loaded the same and it is subject to some rumor. For years, some experts recommended loading your 25 with European-produced ammunition. The Europeans always took the 25 more seriously as a defensive round and their version of the round is loaded hotter than what is most widely available in the United States. I am here to say it is not completely true.

American-made Remington UMC once topped my chronograph results at a true 750 feet per second. The most popular European load I have found on the American market is Fiocchi 6.35x18mm (25 ACP) load. My five-shot average chronograph reading with this ammunition was only 618 feet per second and it was a result mimicked on other occasions. It could be that some makers are loading down their ammunition for liability reasons, given how old some 25 ACP pistols are. But one ammunition that surprised me was the Aguila 50 grain load—made in Mexico!

The Round

The Aguila 50-grain FMJ load comes in boxes of 50 rounds and uses reloadable brass cases and the same ho-hum copper jacketed round-nosed projectile as all the others. I fired a five-round string over my Caldwell Chronograph using my Beretta 21A Bobcat. From 10 feet, the 2.4-inch barreled Bobcat clocked the rounds with an average velocity of 772 feet per second. Compared to the Remington load, the Aguila is 22 feet per second faster. At velocities this low, that is not insignificant.

I tested the Aguila load against the new Buffalo Bore offering. The latter has more mass and velocity, but the former has none of the feeding issues. I shot both through 2x4s to see how they would fair against hard damage. The Buffalo Bore penetrated 1.12 inches from entrance to base of the projectiles. The Aguila load penetrated .90 inch. Surprisingly, a pair of 22 LR 40-grain Mini Mags fired from a 3¾-inch barrel fared worse.

The Test

I tested the Aguila load through two Clear Ballistics 10% gelatin blocks fronted by four layers of denim to gain an idea of what it could do in a worst-case scenario. The denim simulates the layers of heavy clothing that might be encountered if you have to make a shot through a limb to reach vital organs. From 10 feet, I fired four rounds into the blocks. One projectile zipped through all 17½ inches of gelatin and was lost downrange. Three projectiles were captured.

All three projectiles made ice-pick holes through the denim and into gelatin. There was some upset between the 7–9-inch mark where each projectile tumbled end-over-end. All three projectiles were recovered backward. There was no expansion, not that you would expect any from most full metal jacket loads. The penetration was substantial and on par with a good 9mm Luger defensive hollow point, albeit without the additional damage. One projectile stopped at the 14½-inch mark. The second landed at 15½ inches. The third and final projectile captured stopped at 16¼ inches.

25 ACP FMJ —The Bottom Line

Although all pistol calibers are underpowered, some are more powerful than others. Time and time again, I have said that the differences aren’t always academic. There are legitimate advantages of one caliber over another. But one universal trait that comes close to truth is that we should not use FMJ for self-defense whenever possible.

With that said, no rule is absolute, and this is true for pocket pistol rounds like the 25 ACP. With low mass and lower velocity rounds like these, fear of overpenetration becomes moot but getting enough penetration to hit vital organs in the first place is paramount. If full metal jacket is the option, some are certainly better than others. In the world of 25 ACP cartridges, the Aguila 50-grain FMJ is hard to beat.

Buckhorn sights are not all that widespread these days. We usually find them on lever guns like the Henry Golden Boy .22 I recently purchased, or maybe on some muzzleloaders. I had never used buckhorns before the Henry, so I did a little research on how to shoot properly with them. This is not an all-encompassing article about the nuances of buckhorns. But it will get you started, and, as I’ve found, learning for yourself is half the fun.

Buckhorn sights are so named because they stand up, and sometimes curve, like deer antlers. They may also have interior nubs that resemble the tines on those antlers. So, the name works, but the sights don’t all look the same.

Buckhorns and Semi Buckhorns

One thing I quickly learned is that there are buckhorn sights (full buckhorns if you will) and semi-buckhorns. It seems that these two terms are often grouped under the name “buckhorns,” even though there is a difference.

Here’s the easy way to distinguish the two: If your sight tines curve upward and inward to where they are pointing back toward one another, you have the full buckhorns. If they go straight up and the tips do not curve inward, you have the semi-buckhorns. Semi buckhorns also have a subset in which the tines are flattened on top instead of coming to a tip. These are called…wait for it…flat tops. Semi buckhorns, of one variety or another, seem to be the most common.

All will have a notch at the bottom in which to index your front bead. My Henry came with semi-buckhorn flat tops. You use the sights the same way, though some folks prefer one over the other for reasons we’ll touch on below.

Built-In Range Finder

The big advantage that both varieties of buckhorn sights have over more basic iron sight systems is that they are designed to aid the shooter judge distance. But this isn’t like a laser rangefinder or bullet drop compensator (BDC) reticle. The buckhorns require estimation and trial and error to dial in adjustments for your particular rifle.

Here’s basically how that works. For close-range targets, place the front bead in the bottom notch. That’s the easy and obvious part. For intermediate range, and what that is depends on your rifle and caliber, index the front bead part way up the rear sight’s tines. This is where the estimation and trial and error come in. But a little diligence and practice will quickly yield positive results as you learn how the sights relate to various distances. For long-range shots, index the bead higher up the tines and follow the same process.

It doesn’t sound very scientific and may not appeal to folks accustomed to precision optics. But open sights have been around a lot longer than scopes, and shooters have made astounding shots with them. They made those shots by learning to correlate their sights with their rifle’s performance. Buckhorns are designed to allow that process for those who want to shoot that way.

Adjustable

But buckhorns aren’t always about estimation and Kentucky Windage. Many, including the sights that came on my Henry, have a sliding “ladder” to help with elevation. They’re really quite simple to use. Just lift up on the rear buckhorns. The ladder slides out or in, depending on what you’re trying to do.

On the Henry, the further you pull out the slide, the higher your sights are elevated. This forces the shooter to raise the barrel to see the front bead. This method allows the bead to stay in the rear notch for longer shots if so desired. But, again, the ladder’s steps are not marked for particular ranges, unlike the ladder sights on old military surplus rifles. You will have to experiment to see where your rifle hits on each step. But once you learn it, adjusting your elevation is not difficult at all.

Buckhorns are also windage adjustable, but you need a mallet and punch to do it. Usually, the buckhorns are at the rear of a metal strip about three inches long. There’s a small set screw near the front. Loosen the screw just a bit. Too much will cause you to overcompensate. Once you loosen the screw, place the punch against the strip where the screw is and gently tap it with the mallet. It doesn’t take much. When your sights are aligned where you want them, tighten the screw back down.

This method is obviously not intended for the field. It’s really only necessary if your sights are not dialed in at the factory or they are somehow knocked off kilter. Windage adjustments in the field should be estimated based on the situation. Attaining that skill requires practice.

Some Like Buckhorns and Some Don’t

While researching buckhorns I found that some people like them and some don’t. It’s like anything, I suppose. That’s why different options exist. It looked to me like those who liked them had taken the time to learn their proper use and vice versa.

It also seems that most who like them prefer the semi-buckhorns. I saw several folks say the full buckhorns obstruct the sight picture with the inward curving tips. Some say the same about the semi-buckhorns, as noted in the image above, though the semi-buckhorns offer a better picture than the full buckhorns.

For my part, I like the buckhorns. I shot pretty well with them, but my eyes aren’t what they used to be, and I sometimes had trouble picking up the bead against certain backgrounds. Recently, I replaced them with a Hi-Viz LiteWave system that I can pick up more easily. I kind of wish they were semi-buckhorns, but they’re definitely what I needed. Plus, it’s not like I’ll be taking many long shots with .22 Long Rifle. If I get a larger caliber rifle with semi-buckhorns, I’ll probably try to keep them.

So, if you buy yourself a rifle with buckhorns, maybe give them a shot before deciding you want something else. They really are a pretty cool system once you understand how they work.

If you own a gun, you probably have the case or box it came in, right? In the closet, out in the garage, or somewhere else out of sight. If you own 10 guns, you probably have 10 cases or boxes somewhere. I’m sure some people keep their handguns in the nice case they came in. But the rest of us make comments about how nice it is before we put it on a shelf and never look at it again. The accessories that come in the case or box are also exciting to find, but some of us also leave that stuff in the box and never touch it.

One of my kids asked me why I had so many gun boxes, cases, and bags in the basement. I had trouble giving them a good answer except for resale purposes. But kids are persistent, and she asked what guns I was planning to sell. I gave the correct answer: guns aren’t for selling. None of that makes any sense to anyone, anywhere, unless you have guns too. You like the nice solid gun case, but you don’t use it either. It’s too big and bulky to store the gun in. Even if the gun came in a cheap cardboard box, we save that too.

The truth is though, gun cases help the gun sell at a higher price if we do need some quick cash. The person you sell it to will not use the case either, but they will pay more for the gun if you have the original box. So, if you want to know what guns come with the best cases and accessories, here are some of the ones that have impressed me over the years.

Bull Armory AXE (Glock Clone)

The Bull Armory AXE case is by far the nicest gun case I have seen that comes standard with the gun. It’s a soft zip-up case that can double as a carry bag.  I’ve never used it, but it was a nice surprise to find when I opened the box. This case appears to be durable with a zipper closure.

But wait, that’s not all. When I opened the case, I was even more delighted to see it came with three magazines and has room to hold three more. Some gun cases contain a cleaning rod or, if you’re lucky, a mag loader. There was a cleaning rod in the case along with some stickers and the user manual. The inside of the case is felt-lined so Velcro straps and holsters can be used on it. Most cases are meant to protect the gun during shipment and provide a place to store it. If I need a case to carry a gun, I will definitely use this one.

Walther PDP

Next on the list is the Walther PDP. If you don’t use a case, it shouldn’t matter what size it is, but it does. The Walther PDP comes in a large heavy-duty plastic case with a molded lining to fit the gun. This one didn’t come with three mags, but it did come with two. It also came with a mag loader, two sizes of grips, and a wrench to remove the optic plate. The case itself is a thicker plastic than average gun cases. But it’s the overall size and the molded foam that makes this case stand out. The user manual and warranty registration card lie underneath the foam on the lid.

Kimber Micro-9 Rapide 1911

Kimber markets their compact 1911 pistols as high-end guns. The soft case their pistols come in is not as high-end as their guns, but they are practical. The box contains the soft carry case, Kimber branded gun lock, user manual, and some info cards on accessories that will work for the new gun. The soft case is small but that’s not a bad thing. The size makes it easy to stow the gun away without taking up much room. The material of the case and zipper appears to be built well, and of course, the Kimber name is printed on the front.

CZ-75 B

CZ-USA puts out some great guns and the 75 model has been around for ages. A reliable and comfortable gun to shoot, the CZ-75 comes with a plastic case that is just large enough to hold the gun and one extra magazine. The foam liner is molded to fit the gun and extra mag. It has a place to hold the two cleaning rods it comes with, and the top has a cutout for the paperwork to slide into. This case is durable enough you could keep the gun stored in here and access it daily. Some cases feel like they would start to break if you used them all the time, but not this one.

Sig Sauer M17

The case you get when purchasing the Sig M17 pistol is pretty simple, but it is a little thicker than some other gun cases out there. The plastic is thick and feels like it would hold up over time if someone wants to use it. Sig uses a generic case that can work with just about any handgun so there is no molded liner for a specific gun. It has the standard foam inserts that sit in the case. Behind one of the foam inserts is the instructions book, Sig sticker, lock, and ammo recommendation card for the gun. The case is large enough to hold the gun and plenty of extra magazines (and you always need more magazines).

Summary

Like I said in the beginning, most gun owners will not use the case. The quality of the case makes it more exciting when you open the box, but then we stick the box on a shelf. While it doesn’t make any sense, I admit that I will pay a little more for a gun if it comes with the original gun case and instructions manual. Even though I don’t use the case, I want it for resale purposes. After all, it does sound like a better deal when you hear “original case and papers included.” If you are about to purchase your first handgun, I would recommend saving the original box and case the gun came with.

If you travel a lot or just want to keep the gun put away when you’re not carrying it, any of these cases would be a great option. The quality of a gun case shouldn’t be your deciding factor on what gun to purchase. But the case the gun arrives in does make the first impression with your new purchase. Nobody likes to spend a small fortune on a gun only to be handed a flimsy $5 gun case. But we love to be handed a super nice gun case so we can tuck it away in the closet.

I love the Shadow Warrior games and world. The mix of ninja, Chinese folklore, cyberpunk, magic with guns, and first-person shooting just gets me. We’ve made it to the third chapter of Shadow Warrior, and the game takes a 180 in terms of direction from Shadow Warrior 2. Gone is the semi-opened world, and instead, we are put in a first-person shooter and slasher that moves at breakneck speeds through linear levels. We do return to the attitude and visuals of Shadow Warrior 3.

We return as Lo Wang. Lo Wang is a ninja, but don’t expect stealth gameplay. Ninja is used fairly loosely here. Wang, as he’s known, is a sarcastic, somewhat idiotic, arrogant mercenary who has accidentally kind of plunged the world into an apocalypse. The story picks up right after the second one ends, with Lo Wang lamenting his failures and how a dragon escaped and has nearly killed most of the world.

The story itself isn’t much. It’s streamlined. To be fair, that’s the best way to describe Shadow Warrior 3, for better or worse. Shadow Warrior 2 was a fairly complicated game with tons of side quests, bonus missions, and a pile of weapons, upgrades, and play styles. Not to mention Shadow Warrior 2 had this long, somewhat complicated story.

That’s mostly gone now, though. I was a huge fan of Shadow Warrior 2, so moving into Shadow Warrior 3 was a big change. I wasn’t sure how much I’d appreciate it. Even so, I owe it to Wang to finish the journey he and I started in 2013. (Sorry, I’m not a real OG who played the 1997 version.)

Blasting Into Shadow Warrior 3

First and foremost, the game maintains the humor of the original games, which is very important to the Shadow Warrior series. Lo Wang is a lovable idiot and kind of a scum bag, bordering on a douchebag. Yet, he has his charm and always provides an entertaining commentary on the events occurring, as well as plenty of innuendo and one-liners as combat roars on.

What makes Wang a good hero is that he does have good traits. For example, when his former enemy Orochi Zilla says they have to sacrifice the remainder of his demon friend Hoji to fight the dragon, Wang goes off script and risks it all to save Hoji. This works because Hoji has a plan of his own. The story is pretty straightforward, and most of the story is told at the beginning of the game.

We gotta slay a magical, earth-killing dragon, and that means we have a quest. The quest takes us through magical environments facing monsters, demons, zombies, and more, all inspired by Chinese folklore. Well, somewhat inspired. These enemies vary widely, and each has its own weaknesses and strengths. They all also have their unique executions. You can rip their heads off, disembowel them, disarm them, turn their weapons against them, etc.

They are all quite varied. When Wang pulls off an execution, he also gets a temporary weapon or effect. This includes double health, freezing enemies, or getting a big, giant sword to swing around. Each enemy gives you a unique effect or power.

Moving Fast

The game and combat move at a breakneck speed. It never slows down. If you stop moving, you’ll be dead before you know it. You’ll be running through environments and bashing your way through countless demons. The world engages you in a wide variety of movements. You’ll jump (and double jump), dash, climb, wall run, and grapple hook. The grappling hook is something that seems to be in nearly every new game, and Wang points it out in a bit of meta-humor.

The game encourages speed, and even just moving between different parts of the world can be a thrill. It’s not necessarily a platformer, but those elements are there, and you’ll need precisely timed jumps and grapple hooks to make your way through the world.

Combat is continuous, and most of your big fights will be in their arenas implemented into each level. What starts as a wide open area in the beginning stages evolves into ever more complicated environments to fight in. You’ll have grappling hook points, wall running, and verticality to deal with. Eventually, all manner of traps and environmental hazards will be present that can help or hurt you.

Combat is all about moving, killing, and alternating between your guns and katana. When you use your katana to kill enemies, you’ll get ammo. When you kill enemies with guns, you’ll get health pickups. This has you constantly swapping between guns and your sword to deal death and maintain high ammo and health. You simply can’t favor one over the other, and built-in series of challenges encourage you to try everything.

Upgrade It

The Upgrade system in Shadow Warrior 3 is also very simple and easy to use. You can apply three upgrades to each weapon and several upgrades to your character. You get upgrade points by finding them in the world and completing challenges. Their additions to your guns, katana, and Wang, are effective but repetitive. Every gun has a double ammo upgrade, for example.

With such a straightforward game, I understand simplifying it, but I felt pretty disappointed and didn’t care much about earning upgrades. In Shadow Warrior 2, I scraped through every side mission to earn upgrades and max out my Wang.

The Guns

The guns are all entirely fictional. Some are rational, like the big magnum revolver you start with. It’s a sweet, modern double-action design, but it’s a top break for two reloads. You have a pair of submachine guns that you dual-wield and a four-barreled shotgun with Winchester Liberator vibes to it.

Then you have a grenade launcher, a rail gun, and a shuriken launcher. Some guns get crazy, but they are all admittedly unique. They are all useful til the very end of the game. Even the Outlaw, aka the starting gun, remains useful. I appreciate the creativity and how the different guns offer different effects on the enemies. Each offers you a distinctive style and allows you to take down different enemies rapidly.

The katana allows for both light and heavy attacks as well as elemental damage. You can also use your grappling hook to yank your Wang to enemies and rapidly close the distance to defeat them.

Hold Onto Your Wang

Shadow Warrior 3 is a ton of fun to play. I enjoyed my time. However, it does have some problems. It’s graphically just okay with a lot of flat textures. The sound has some kind of big where it just mutes itself sometimes or makes a noise annoying enough to cause me to reset the game. Shadow Warrior 3 was fun, but I’m not a fan of how the game stripped itself down.

If you get it cheap, it’s worth the thrill. Hopefully, Shadow Warrior 4 can strike a balance between fast-moving combat and story, on top of a more thorough upgrade system. Here’s hoping we get more Wang in the near future.

Most gun owners own at least one gun safe, whether it’s a heavy upright model or a small single handgun design. And when it comes to the assorted gear that goes with the gun, like holsters, optics, and ammo, it typically gets relegated to a shelf or a catch-all bin or tote. It’s also common practice to store some ammo with the guns, even though not much ammunition will fit in a safe full of firearms. Even so, it’s normal to squeeze in a box or two.

What if you had a separate storage option that could keep larger amounts of ammunition under lock and key? That’s exactly what the Hornady Ammo Cabinet offers gun owners: a storage space dedicated to and designed for ammunition.

What’s the Hornady Ammo Cabinet?

The Hornady Ammo Cabinet has a rather self-descriptive name, and it’s precisely what it is. Of course, the word “cabinet” might make it sounds as though it’s made of wood, but it isn’t. It seems likely Hornady chose that label because a cabinet is, by definition, a case with shelves that is used to store things. A gun safe, while similar, is different in that it’s made to securely store firearms and prevent unauthorized access while often also providing some protection from water, fire, and other damage. This cabinet does lock, but it doesn’t have quite the same heavy-duty protections of a standard gun safe, and for good reason.

This cabinet was designed with Square-Lok walls and has orderly rows of square-shaped holes on every side, which might just be one of the main reasons it’s a cabinet, not a safe. These holes are necessary for ammo storage, though. This cabinet has excellent airflow which is great for something meant for storing ammunition. This design also means the cabinet is modular, and there are additional aftermarket accessories you can get to expand storage possibilities. Multiple cabinets can also be mounted to one another. This is a versatile cabinet, and it’s roomy, too.

What are the Hornady Ammo Cabinet specifications?

The dimensions of the cabinet are 18 inches by 12 inches by 40 inches, so it’s a bit under four feet tall. It’s large enough to get the job done and likely wise that it’s shorter due to the overall weight of a big pile of ammo. Panels are made from sturdy metal. Overall empty weight is listed as 47.8 pounds and the shipping weight is just a few more. This is not a cabinet or safe that’s too heavy to move on your own or that requires a pallet and assistance to get into the house. It’s hefty, but you can move it on your own.

Two adjustable and one fixed shelf come with the cabinet. A trio of shelf mats designed to add a layer of protection to the items stored are also included. Hornady lists the shelves as having a bearing weight of 100 pounds each. Although the exact weight of different calibers of ammunition depends on a variety of factors including packaging, this gives you a general idea of what 100 pounds of ammunition looks like (remember, these are only approximations):

• 3500 rounds of 9mm
• 4500 rounds of 380 ACP
• 2000 rounds of 308 Win
• 13,300 rounds of 22 LR
• 2100 rounds of 45 ACP
• 3700 rounds of 223 Rem
• 2000 rounds of 30-30 Win
• 1000 shotshells of 12 gauge 2 3/4 inch slugs

What this tells you is that you can fit a lot more ammunition into this cabinet than it first appears. If you’re storing your ammo in the factory 50-round packaging, you’re unlikely to need to worry overly much about being precise with how much ammo you load each shelf with. However, if you store a lot of loose ammo, whether in cans or boxes, it’ll take up less space and you’ll need to be mindful of how much you put on a single shelf. It might be tempting to put whatever you can squeeze on a shelf on it, but that isn’t recommended.

Possible Square-Lok accessories:

• Wire shelf
• Gun rack
• Parts bin
• Drawer
• Metal shelf
• Storage bin

The possibilities are endless with the Hornady Ammo Cabinet. Aside from what’s mentioned above, each cabinet ships with a magnetic motion light, 10 magnetic and rewritable shelf labels, three plastic ammo cans, and a solid metal Hornady magnet.

How well does it work?

Basic assembly is quick and easy. Perhaps the greatest thing about it is the fact that the door can be mounted to open from the right or left, solving all kinds of issues of where it fits and how well it suits a left- or right-handed person. It does have a key lock and comes with a pair of barrel keys that work as expected. The two adjustable shelves can be put wherever you want them with no struggle at all.

It’s worth noting the hook-like extensions that mount the shelves to the Square-Lok panels do extend slightly beyond the cabinet and could be messed with from the outside. They’re pretty securely fit, it’s just not outside the realm of possibility to imagine someone trying to push them up to knock a shelf loose (this would be a challenge with weighed-down shelves).

The included motion-sensing light is surprisingly bright. Although you might expect a dim, cheaply made bar light, Hornady’s light is blindingly bright if you choose to look right at it and large enough to be quite useful. If you want light added to your cabinet, don’t worry, the parts it arrives with get the job done, and then some. Visibility of products inside the cabinet isn’t an issue in a dark room when the light is in place.

Thanks to the available space inside the cabinet, using all three shelves along with the base space means a significant amount of ammunition fits. In fact, it’s plenty of room for the average gun owner. If you have a truly large amount of ammo, of course, it’s not going to fit, but that leaves you with two options: buy more ammo cabinets, or designate the cabinet for specific use.

In my case, that means the ammo cabinet is perfect for regular-use ammo such as our most commonly used defensive ammo and a selection of hunting ammo we’re most likely to use on feral hogs at any given moment. This is fantastic for regular-use storage that makes regularly used ammo easy to grab without wandering through a larger space and pawing through piles. Yes, it’s quite useful even if it doesn’t hold all your ammo.

Loading all three shelves and the base, plus the weight of the unit itself, adds up to about 450 pounds. That means it weighs a decent amount when it’s full, so take some care as to where you put it. And if you aren’t going to fill it, be sure you don’t make it top-heavy. It might be nice to have your ammo higher up for easier reach but it won’t be so nice if it tips over because you left the lower parts empty.

It’s occurred to me the Hornady Ammo Cabinet is also perfect for storing gunsmithing tools or an array of gun parts. All you’d need to do to get truly organized is to order the additional drawers and boxes for tiny parts and set it up however you prefer. My organizer’s heart loves the idea of a cabinet for each purpose. Even better, if you get three or more bolted together, they could serve as a gun bench you could stand at to work on guns.

Overall, this is one piece of gear that gets a 10/10. I was a little skeptical when I first saw it, but once I put it to work, I was entirely won over. This is a great addition to any home or gun room and well worth the investment.

MSRP for the Hornady Ammo Cabinet is set at $629.00.

The Safariland QLS (Quick Locking System) is a must-have for anyone that owns a duty-sized handgun. I have always used a Safariland holster at work because of the durability and multiple options for retention. They have everything from Level 1 to Level 3 Retention for your Glock, Sig, Walther, or any other handgun you want to carry. But I also found myself using multiple holsters for different setups. For tactical operations, I use a drop-led holster. For regular uniform, I use a belt-attached duty holster. But if I wanted to take my holster off the duty belt to put on a different belt, it was a lot of work.

Because I have always used Safariland at work, I gravitated to them for my personal holsters. I have one for my Glock pistols, my Sig M17, and others. But what I don’t want to do is buy an expensive holster for my belt and then turn around and buy another one for a drop-leg too. It’s easy to overlook holsters and focus on the cool guns. But holsters can be a big problem if you can’t find the setup you want. They are expensive and if you own multiple handguns, well, be ready to fork out some cash on holsters. The Safariland QLS system fixes this problem though. It’s been around for a while, but I am still amazed at how easy it makes switching holsters around.

What is the QLS system?

Basically, the QLS system is two mounting plates: the receiver plate, and the locking fork. The receiver plate attaches to your belt and the locking fork to your holster. The locking fork slides into the receiving plate from the top and lock in place.

Let’s say you want your gun on a duty belt, but you also want the ability to carry it on a pancake belt clip. With this system, you can attach a receiving plate to both the belt attachment and belt clip. The locking fork is attached to the back of the holster. Now you can slide the holster over the receiving plate on either attachment. To remove it, you simply squeeze the forks at the bottom and lift.

This works great if you have different systems for carrying a holster. I like to use a drop-leg holster when I have an entry vest on. With the QLS, I can attach a receiving plate to my drop-leg rig so my holster can lock onto it. This eliminates the need for multiple holsters. It also allows you to have a holster for different guns and use the same belt, drop-leg, or paddle system for those holsters. If you have one belt, one drop-leg rig, and one paddle, you can use any Safariland holster for any gun on those systems.

Installing the QLS system

The QLS kit comes with one receiving plate, one locking fork, and the screws needed to attach them. The first step is to attach the locking forks to the holster. When you buy a Safariland holster, they come in a bag with a belt attachment and a paddle. Normally, you pick one of these two attachments and screw them to the holster. Instead, use the provided screws and attach the locking fork to the back of the holster (see photo below). If you already have a holster with a paddle or belt attachment on it, remove it to install the locking forks instead. Mine had the paddle so I took it off. Three screws will need to be removed for this process.

Next is the receiving plate. This will attach to whatever system you want use to carry the holster. In this case, I am attaching it to the back of the paddle I had on my holster. I already have a receiving plate on my duty belt and leg holster. This will allow me to use this holster on those and the paddle.

To attach the receiving plate, use two T-nuts (see photo below), and two screws that came with the QLS system. The T-nuts will go into the top and the screws from the bottom. There are special grooves that allow the T-nuts to fall into place on the receiving plate. Once the two screws are in, you’re done. The holster can now be attached to the paddle by sliding it on from the top until it clicks into place.

Is it practical?

In a simple world, we would have one gun, one holster, and one way to carry that holster. But we are people and we’re not simple. We like to have options and if you’re like me, you want more than one gun. And with each gun comes multiple holsters and different ways to carry those holsters. This system will eliminate the need to buy so many holsters. Besides saving money, however, it makes it fast for switching to a different system. I keep my leg holster in a bag in the back of my patrol car. Because I don’t work the road with the deputies, I often just carry a Glock 19 with dress clothes. But if something goes bad and I need to help the road guys or tactical team, I need to switch gear.

This system allows me to throw on my entry vest and drop-leg rig. I can then remove my holster from the paddle and click it onto the drop-leg rig without carrying two different holsters. If someone decides they want to carry a different gun, they can use the same rig to carry the holster. This means you can switch your holster from one setup to another within seconds. If you carry a Glock but decide you want to switch over to a Sig M17, just remove the holster and snap the M17 holster on your belt. No need to remove everything on the belt, just slide the belt attachment off.

Final thoughts on the Safariland QLS system

Some may not see the need to have so many holsters and ways to carry them, but some of us do. This may be for our job, or this is the system we use at home with our personal equipment. I use the Safariland QLS system both at work and at home. I can have one belt system that has all my stuff on it and change out holsters without messing with my belt system. This is great for training with different weapons or changing up how you carry your gun based on the task at hand. If you want one holster (or multiple holsters) that can attach to multiple platforms this is the best system out there.