Attention all lumen lackeys, flashlight situs judi slot yang sering menang fanatics, and touters of torches that proclaim performance—we have a brilliant bulletin for you. The folks over at Modlite Systems have released their new weapon-mounted light: The Modlite PL350 Pistol Light. The release of their weapon light is something that fans of Modlite have been coveting for some time. Thankfully for them, it is finally here, and initial responses indicate that it does not seem to disappoint. On top of the weapon light, Modlite has also introduced the “Modlite PL350 Holster” to complement the light.

The Modlite PL350 Pistol Light: Casting Light on the Subject

The specific light package that we are discussing today is the Modlite PLHv2-PL350 Light package. There are two more models, the PLH5K-PL350 & the OKW-PL350, that are coming out later with different Kelvin color temperatures and features. However, from here on out in this article, we will be referring to the PLHv2-PL350 as just the PL350.

The Modlite PL350 Pistol light comes with a switch and body assembly. In addition to that, the package also includes a 18350 rechargeable battery and a set of PHLSTER ARC Switch paddles. The 18350 battery allows the Modlite PL350 for roughly 35-40 minutes of continued usage.

Packages are available with and without a two-cell XTAR USB charger. The light is an “Out the front” battery change, allows you to quickly replace batteries without tools and without taking the light off the pistol.

Specific statistics on the PL350 light, for the illumination intellectuals:

• 5800 Kelvin color temperature
• 1350 Lumens
• 54,000 Candela

The Modlite PL350 Holster: What options are there?

As with any weapon-mounted light holster, compatibility is always an issue, but few manufacturers step up to the plate. Enter the Modlite PL350 Holster. We will be updating this page as we find more holsters for you.

PHLster Floodlight PL350

Tenicor MALUS SOL Light Holster for the PL350

MALUS SOL AIWB for various Glocks

More than likely, more than a few of you interested in the Modlite PL350 are Glock geeks; this might pique your interest.

MALUS SOL for 1911/2011

If there are a few of you that are Glock Geeks there has to be plenty of you reading this that are 1911 diehards and for good reason!

Author’s note, it looks like Tenicor only has the MALUS SOL AIWB for 1911/2011 compatible with the Modlite PL350 in the full 5″ barrel version of this holster as of this writing.

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By now, you’ve probably heard of the Rare Breed FRT-15 Trigger https://albertanails.com/slot-online/, if only because of the company’s coming fight with the Feds over the attempt to brand the trigger a “machine gun.” If you haven’t heard about that mess, we have a separate follow-up article on the way to break it down. For now, though, let’s look at exactly what the FRT-15 trigger is and what it does. If you already know this stuff, you’re excused and can go to recess early. If not, read on.

FRT stands for “Forced Reset Trigger.”

The “15” part means that it’s designed for the AR-15 platform chambered in 5.56 NATO or .300 Blackout. It won’t work in AKs, SCARs, or anything else. Its function is dependent on the design of the MILSPEC AR bolt carrier.

It MAY work in an AR-9, depending on how the gun is set up. An FRT-9 (for AR-9s) and FRT-10 (for AR-10s) are in the works but not yet ready for manufacture. Rare Breed says that the FRT-15 will NOT work in an AR chambered in .22 Long Rifle, but I saw a guy who had one tuned to 80 to 90 percent reliability on YouTube. You decide for yourself, but when the manufacturer warns against it…

Rare Breed is careful to point out that the FRT-15 may require some tuning to any gun in which it’s installed. “Tuning,” in this case, refers to gassing and making sure you have the proper buffer and bolt carrier. More on that in a minute.

The term “forced reset” is an accurate descriptor of how the trigger works. Your standard AR trigger resets when the shooter releases rearward pressure, thus allowing the trigger mechanism to move forward, whereupon another press of the trigger starts the whole process over. Like you didn’t know that.

The FRT-15 uses a newly designed hammer that, as it is cocked by the bolt carrier, forces the trigger forward to the reset, along with the shooter’s finger, as the bolt moves forward to chamber the next round. A locking bar prevents the trigger from being pressed again until the bolt cycle is complete. By maintaining pressure on the trigger, the shooter can take advantage of the hammer-assisted reset to dramatically increase the rate of fire. Or not. Based on what I have seen, with some practice, the shooter can manipulate the trigger to fire only one shot or the equivalent of a short burst.

Keep in mind that the locking bar’s pressure on the trigger prevents another press until the bolt cycles. Indeed, it is the completion of the bolt cycle that releases the locking bar. Between the hammer and the locking bar, the shooter cannot simply hold the trigger to the rear. It must execute its function for each round fired. So, while the FRT-15 is capable of a prodigious rate of fire, it is still a semi-automatic trigger.

Now, back to the part about tuning your gun so the FRT-15 operates properly.

Here’s what Lawrence DeMonico, Rare Breed’s president, has to say about it:

• You must have a MILSPEC full-auto bolt carrier. This is non-negotiable. If you have a lighter weight or semi-auto carrier with the longer slot in the bottom, it will not actuate the locking bar and the trigger will not work. Period.
• Every gun is going to be a little different, based on barrel length, gas system, buffer, and bolt carrier weight. Some guns will run the trigger right out of the box. Don’t be discouraged if yours doesn’t because there are some simple things you can do.
• Lawrence recommends an H3 buffer with a standard carbine spring. This is dependent on the next point, which is…
• You have to have enough gas. The trigger’s design places a small amount of drag on the bottom of the bolt carrier as it cycles. So, you have to factor this in when working out the right combination for your gun.
• Ejection patterns can tell you where your gassing is before you install the FRT-15: If you’re ejecting at 1 o’clock, you’re way overgassed; if you’re ejecting at 4 o’clock, you have the opposite problem and you’re way undergassed; 2:30 or 3 o’clock is the sweet spot and that’s where you want to be before installing the trigger.
• The gas/buffer interaction is something you can play with. If your gun isn’t cycling properly, you have some choices: get a lighter H2 or H1 buffer; use hotter ammo; or open up your gas port. You can also speed up or slow down your rate of fire by adjusting these combinations.
• As noted above, part of the tuning is your own trigger pull. If you have a death grip on it, the bolt won’t function properly, and your gun will malfunction. Keep your trigger pull between five and ten pounds.
• Finally, Lawrence acknowledges that some shooters may have to employ the services of a gunsmith or armorer. Again, there are several variables, and every gun is going to be different.

Are there any problems with the Rare Breed trigger?

If you’re researching the FRT-15, you may run across some folks who have had problems with the locking bar spring. There was an issue caused by stacking tolerances in some ARs, which resulted in the spring kinking when the locking bar traveled further than it was designed to. Rare Breed addressed the problem by modifying the housing. All FRT-15s shipped on or after 1 March 2021 have the modified housing, thus fixing the problem that some people had. Those with a trigger from before that time were provided with a modified locking bar which also solves the problem.

I saw several people who addressed the problem on their own with homebrew modifications and fixes. Some worked better than others. Do what you want, but it looks to me like Rare Breed has addressed the problem and will take care of anyone who has experienced it. Keep in mind that these folks are only a small fraction of those who bought the trigger, so, while it is a problem, it is not widespread and appears to have been fixed. I offer this more as a PSA than anything. I have no personal skin in the game when it comes to Rare Breed, but the problem with the locking bar spring came to my attention and they seem to have handled it conscientiously.

Having said that, the vast majority of customers have had zero issues with the trigger. While researching, I found a lot more people who loved it than people who didn’t. And many of the folks who had the locking bar problem either fixed it themselves or let Rare Breed do it for them, resulting in the happy face.

All-in-all, the FRT-15 looks like a helluva lot of fun. But, as you might expect, the ability to achieve that higher rate of fire comes with some trade-offs. Accuracy is number one. If you think you’re gonna roll out there and drive tacks with this thing…well, you’re not. Depending on your range to target, you’ll be doing well to score a  hit 50 percent of the time. You’re gonna have to practice. A LOT. Which brings us to the second point, this thing burns through the ammo. If you have it to burn, then good on ya. But it will take some time and some ammo to get the accuracy you want. Or should want. Finally, if you want to fire one round at a time, you will have to practice that too. I saw some guys who had gotten it down, but they had to put in the work.

Rare Breed has sold tens of thousands of these triggers and I’m glad to hear that. Glad to hear that someone’s innovation and hard work paid off. Glad that shooters who want a product like that can get it and, hopefully, benefit from it. Glad the company is backing up its product the right way. But, as I mentioned earlier, the AFT (snicker) is trying to throw cold water on everyone’s fun. More on that soon. Hopefully, my editor will insert a link to that article HERE when it becomes available.

Let’s talk red dots. Specifically, let’s talk about the differences between an open and enclosed red dot optic. Red dot optics come in lots of configurations and designs with various colors, reticles, and designs that range from tubular to square, and most importantly, today, we are talking open and enclosed optics. We’ll cover the benefits of each design as well as the downsides and where they fit most appropriately in the world of defensive, duty, and competitive firearms.

Open Vs. Enclosed Optics

Let’s define open and enclosed optics before we dive too deep into the subject. Open optics in the world of red dots refer to the lack of a hood over the emitter. These are most popular with handguns. Optics like the Holosun 507C, the Sig ROMEO1PRO, and Trijicon RMR all have open emitters.

Open emitter optics are not just dedicated to handgun optics, but some rifle optics feature an open emitter. Notably, the Holosun HS510C sports an open design and is intended for long guns.

Enclosed optics feature an enclosed emitter that utilizes a hood-like system and an additional lens. This protects the emitter and ensures nothing can come between your lens and emitter. The closed emitters are more common with rifles, and optics like the Holosun 512C, AEMs, Sig Romeo5, and Aimpoint series all use enclosed emitters.

Enclosed optics might be more popular with long guns, but pistol-sized optics exist. The Holosun 509T, Aimpoint ACRO, and Sig ROMEO2 all utilize some form of the enclosed emitter. These ultra-small optics can be readily and reliably used on long guns.

Today we will be using a variety of optics to compare and contrast the benefits and downsides of enclosed and open optics. I’ll be using the Holosun HS510C, a long gun-oriented red dot optic that utilizes an open emitter. Besides it, I will use the Holosun 507C as a mini red dot with an open emitter.

For enclosed red dot optics, we will compare the HS512C and the Holosun 509T. The 512C is a long gun optic, and the 509T is a micro-sized optic.

Benefits of an Open Optic

Let’s talk about the main benefits an open emitter optic offers over an enclosed optic. The lack of a hood and second piece of glass cuts weight a fair bit between open and enclosed optics. For example, the HS510C is approximately ten percent lighter than the 512C. For rifle optics, this isn’t a big deal but notable.

On handguns, no one wants a boat anchor as a weapon. The difference in weight between the 507C and the 509T is .22 ounces. That’s not much, but it does provide a clear difference between the optics.

As you’d imagine, the open optics are smaller in general than the enclosed optics. The dimensional differences are few, but a smaller optic tends to be a less obtrusive optic. The lack of a hood and a second lens does provide some benefits worth noting.

First, the lack of a hood does help open up your peripheral vision a slight bit. With rifles, it can be easier to get a compromised view through the optic in awkward situations. This can be slightly more appealing when you are shooting from awkward positions behind cover.

Open emitter optics also grant you a clearer overall view. The lack of a second lens helps keep things nice and clear. A single lens provides less distortion, and it’s a nice clear view through optics like the HS510C.

Finally, a lot of open optics tend to be cheaper than enclosed optics. For example, the Trijicon RMR is cheaper than the Aimpoint Acro series, but both are duty-grade optics.

Benefits of an Enclosed Optic

Red dot optics work via an emitter casting a red dot onto the lens in front of it. It’s very simple, and all you really need is a single lens. However, with a hood and second lens, anything that gets between the emitter and the lens can cause the optic to fail and eliminate your reticle from appearing on the lens.

This could be rain, dust, snow, and whatever else you might run into in the big wide world of unpredictable environments. A drop of rain on the emitter can cause your reticle to spatter and starburst. With no reticle, an optic is quite useless. With an enclosed optic, this is not an issue at all.

The emitter remains protected by the hood and second lens. This level of protection ensures the highest level of reliability. Nothing can stop you, and you shoot in the rain, snow, and sleet without complaint.

That’s one of the few benefits of this design, but it’s remarkably important for duty use and when loves are on the line.

That’s the most significant benefit, but the enclosed pistol optic does offer one advantage over opened. The enclosed design forces you to look through the optic and allows you to find the dot a bit easier. It’s a minor advantage and really only applies to new pistol red dot shooters. Once you figure out proper presentation, then the enclosed optic does offer that advantage.

Which for What?

When choosing an optic, you have to consider a few things.

• • What weapon is it being mounted to?
  • What size do you need?
  • Which manufacturer provides the features you want?

• What’s its purpose? Purpose is where the biggest difference between the open and enclosed optics appears.

On handguns, your choice of miniature red dot isn’t nearly as important as on a long gun. Concealed carriers have a handy dandy garment and holster to protect the emitter. Soldiers rarely use handguns, and the biggest difference would be apparent for police. We’ve seen military, and police forces utilize optics like the open Trijicon RMR without issue for years. You’re unlikely to run into problems, but if you want the best and most reliable optic, then an enclosed emitter is the way to go.

With long guns meant for duty, it’s all about the enclosed optic. These rifles are slung to your body and exposed to everything. The enclosed optic provides more durability and reliability in any situation. That makes it tough to justify an open optic on a duty rifle.

For home defense and competition, an open optic works fine. For home defense, it’s not likely to be exposed to the elements, and competition doesn’t have the same risks as duty use. In fact, optics like the HS510C have become quite popular for competitive use in PCC divisions. The clear lens and great peripheral vision often make finding those small PCC targets fast and easy.

Open the Door or Close it

The presence of an open or enclosed emitter is a small but important detail. Considerations like durability, mounting options, clarity, and beyond also need to be considered. It’s plenty easy to make crappy optics in open and enclosed variants; however, once you’ve narrowed down who makes good red dot optics and who doesn’t, then you can start considering whether to go enclosed or open.

Which do you prefer? Let us know below and let us know why.